LOCH ETIVE
Carved by ice over 2 million years of successive glaciations, Loch Etive is a dramatic slash through the landscape. With no roads into the upper part of the loch it is rarely traversed today and by paddle is the best way to access it’s upper reaches. The head of the of the loch is dominated by the impressive twin summits of Buachille Etive Mor and Buachille Etive Beag. A trip by water allows you a approach from the opposite side to the tourist masses and offers a totally different perspective of these Scottish landmarks. Glen Etive, which means ‘Little Fierce One’ in Gaelic has not always been untravelled. Historically it was an important route through the countryside and the remains of old shielings can be seen dotted along the shores. Follow in their footsteps to the heart of Scotland’s mountains.
Paddle information
The easiest place to access Loch Etive is at the car part by the Bonawe ferry in Taynuilt. This gives you access right into the upper part of the loach and avoids the fearsome tidal whirlpools of Falls of Lora where the loch drains into the sea. The tide still flows strongly through the Bonawe narrows so it is important to time your launching correctly. Heading north towards to mountains, the northern bank of the loch is clad in Atlantic Oakwoods, a rare habitat which is protected as a special area of conservation.
On the southern side, hidden valleys reach deep in to the heart of the Cruachan massive and sheep watch down from rocky vantage points. Sheep aren’t the only watchers of the loch as Etive is home to a colony of Harbour Seals which you may spot sliding through the water behind your board or watching curiously from their haul out sites. Far from civilisation towards the head of the loch, Beinn Trilleachan begins to dominate the view. Look closely and you may see deer, golden eagles of even climbers moving silently across it’s flanks. It is easy to imagine yourself soaring over the loch on outstretched wings like an eagle, but you don’t have too. In the Deathly Hallows pt 2 film from the Harry Potter series, Harry, Ron and Hermione flew across Loch Etive on the back of a dragon as they escaped Gringott’s Bank.
Loch Etive is the perfect size for an overnight expedition. Along the loch there are a number of perfect little wild camping spots, enabling you to tailor the length of your trip top suit your requirements. All that remains now is to set up camp and watch the sun set over the loch.
Extra excitement
The Bonawe Historic Iron Furnace is less than a mile from the launch point. It is the most complete charcoal-fuelled ironworks in Britain. It was founded in 1753 and continued iron production until 1870s. Today it is an interesting outdoor museum, which shows how pig iron, as well as cannonballs for use in the Napoleonic Wars were made. It is open daily from April - September.
The bustling town of Oban is a short drive away. On the way you can stop and watch the dramatic whirlpools at the Falls of Lora. Spring ebb times provide the most exciting display.
Fact file:
LOCH ETIVE
Launch point: Bonawe ferry, Taynuilt
Distance: Up to 30km
Rating:
Facilities: Car park. There are a shop and cafe in the village of Taynuilt.